Philippine Coffee: Kapeng Barako, Liberica and a Rich History
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Kapeng barako is a strong, bold Philippine coffee made from the Liberica species (Coffea liberica), grown mainly in the provinces of Batangas and Cavite south of Manila. It is famous for a heavy body and a powerful aroma that people often compare to aniseed. The name “barako” means “stud” in Philippine languages, a nod to its strong, macho reputation.
Barako is also the key to one of coffee's most dramatic histories: for a few years in the late 1800s, the Philippines was among the most important coffee producers on Earth. Here is the story, the science and the best way to brew it.
What Is Kapeng Barako?
“Kape” is Filipino for coffee, so kapeng barako simply means “barako coffee.” The word barako traces back to the Spanish verraco, meaning wild boar, and came to mean a stud or a tough, manly man. The name fits the brew: strong, intense and unapologetic.
What really sets barako apart is the species. Most coffee in the world is either Arabica or Robusta. Liberica is a third species, and it makes up less than 2% of commercially grown coffee. Liberica trees are huge compared with other coffee plants, able to reach about 20 meters (66 feet) tall, and they produce large, irregular, almond-shaped beans.
Liberica vs Arabica vs Robusta
| Species | Share of world coffee | Typical flavor | Bean and plant |
|---|---|---|---|
| Arabica | The majority | Sweet, aromatic, higher acidity | Medium oval beans, smaller trees |
| Robusta | Most of the rest | Bold, bitter, earthy, more caffeine | Small round beans, hardy plants |
| Liberica (Barako) | Less than 2% | Smoky, woody, fruity, aniseed-like aroma | Large irregular beans, very tall trees |
For a deeper look at the two dominant species, read our guide to Arabica vs Robusta.
A Rich History: Barako and the 19th-Century Coffee Boom
Spanish friars introduced coffee to the Philippines in the 1740s, and Liberica was first planted in the lowlands of Lipa, Batangas, from where it spread across the region. By the 1860s, Philippine coffee was being exported to San Francisco and parts of Europe, and in 1876 cultivation reached the town of Amadeo in Cavite.
The Boom
Coffee became a pillar of Batangas' economy, and Lipa earned the title of coffee capital of the Philippines. In the 1880s, the Philippines ranked among the top four coffee producers in the world. Its moment came largely because of disaster elsewhere: coffee leaf rust, a fungal disease, had been devastating plantations in other producing regions, including Java, leaving buyers hungry for Philippine beans.
The Collapse
The boom ended abruptly. In 1889, coffee rust and insect infestations reached Batangas and destroyed most of its coffee trees. Within two years, output had fallen to roughly one sixth of its previous level. Many farmers switched to other crops, and the Philippines never regained its place as a top exporter.
Barako survived, though, in farms and backyards across Batangas and Cavite, and it remains a point of regional pride. If you enjoy coffee history, you may also like our history of coffee.
Philippine Coffee Today
The Philippines grows four types of coffee: Arabica, Robusta, Liberica and Excelsa. Robusta makes up the vast majority of production, around 90%, and Mindanao is now the largest producing area. Domestic demand is larger than local production, so the country also imports beans, mainly from Vietnam and Indonesia.
Barako remains the most iconic Philippine coffee, especially in Batangas, where strong black coffee is part of daily life. Specialty interest in Liberica has also grown, with producers working on better picking and processing to show off its unique fruit and floral notes.
What Does Kapeng Barako Taste Like?
- Bold and heavy, with a thick body.
- A strong, distinctive aroma, often compared to aniseed.
- Smoky, woody and dark notes, sometimes with ripe fruit underneath.
- A long, intense finish that lingers well after the sip.
It is not a delicate coffee, and it is not trying to be. Fans love it precisely for its strength and character.
How to Brew Barako-Style Coffee
Barako is traditionally served black or sweetened with muscovado, an unrefined brown sugar with deep molasses notes. It can be made in a drip brewer or French press, or the old-fashioned way: steeped in hot water and strained through a cloth filter.
Barako-Style French Press (1 large mug)
- 3 tablespoons (about 18 g) coarsely ground dark, bold coffee
- 1 1/4 cups (300 ml) water just off the boil
- 1–2 teaspoons (4–8 g) muscovado sugar, to taste
- Add the coffee to the French press and pour in the hot water.
- Stir gently and let it steep for 4 minutes.
- Press the plunger down slowly and pour into a mug.
- Stir in muscovado until dissolved. Taste and adjust.
Variations and tips:
- Cloth-filter style: steep the grounds in a pot of hot water for a few minutes, then pour through a clean cloth filter.
- With milk: a splash of evaporated or condensed milk makes a rich, sweet cup, similar in spirit to Vietnamese coffee.
- Iced: brew it double strength and pour over ice with muscovado syrup.
- If you cannot find Liberica, a bold Robusta or a high-caffeine dark blend gives a similar strong, heavy cup.
Kapeng Barako FAQ
Is kapeng barako Robusta or Liberica?
True kapeng barako is Liberica. Because Liberica is scarce, some products sold as barako in stores may be blended with Robusta or other coffees, so check the label if species matters to you.
Why is barako coffee so strong?
Barako's strength is mostly about flavor: Liberica has a heavy body and a bold, smoky aroma, and it is usually brewed strong and dark. Its intense taste is what gives it a strong reputation.
Where does kapeng barako come from?
Barako is most closely associated with Batangas, especially the Lipa area, and with Cavite. Both provinces lie south of Manila on the island of Luzon.
What is the difference between barako and Excelsa?
Excelsa is a different coffee, now generally treated as a variety of Liberica, with a tart, fruity profile. Barako refers specifically to the traditional Liberica of Batangas and Cavite.
Bold Coffee for Barako Fans
Feel Espresso does not sell Liberica, but if you love barako's boldness, we have coffees that share its strength. Our Robusta from West Java is bold and high in caffeine, the Max Caf Blend is built for maximum kick, and the Asian Plateau Blend brings heavy body and herbal notes from Southeast Asia. Every order is roasted 1–5 days before delivery, perfect for strong, full-bodied coffee on busy days.