Pastéis de Belém: Lisbon’s Legendary Bakery and Its Coffee Ritual
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Walk out of the Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon’s Belém district, turn a few doors down the street, and you will usually find a line. It is for Pastéis de Belém, the bakery that has been making its custard tarts since 1837 from a recipe that, according to the bakery, came from the monastery next door and has never been made public.
The story behind the tart involves a revolution, the closing of every monastery in Portugal and a sugar refinery with a little shop. And the ritual that goes with it is simple: a warm tart, a dusting of cinnamon and a small, strong coffee.
The monastery next door
The Jerónimos Monastery was founded in the early 16th century under King Manuel I and given to the Hieronymite monks, the Order of Saint Jerome. Together with the nearby Tower of Belém, it was listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1983 as an outstanding example of Portuguese art from the Age of Discovery.
Convents and monasteries across Portugal had a long tradition of sweets made with egg yolks and sugar. A frequently repeated explanation is that egg whites were used in large quantities, for example to starch clothes, leaving yolks to be turned into desserts. It is a plausible story often told by food historians and guides, but the bakery itself does not make that claim, so treat it as background rather than proven fact.
A revolution and a closed monastery
In 1820, a liberal revolution began in Portugal, opening a long period of political conflict between liberals and absolutists. One of its consequences came in 1834: the government shut down all convents and monasteries in the country and expelled the clergy and the workers who lived there.
According to the bakery’s own history, a sugar cane refinery with a small general store already stood next to the monastery in the early 1800s. After the closure, someone from the monastery began selling sweet pastries in that shop to make a living. The pastries quickly became known as Pastéis de Belém.
The bakery does not name the person who brought the recipe, and you will find different versions online. The safe summary is that the recipe is said to have come from the monastery and reached the shop after the religious orders were dissolved.
Since 1837
In 1837, baking began in buildings attached to the refinery, using what the bakery calls the ancient secret recipe from the monastery. That is the date you will see on the facade and the boxes today.
| Year | Event |
|---|---|
| Early 1500s | Jerónimos Monastery founded under King Manuel I |
| 1820 | Liberal revolution in Portugal |
| 1834 | All convents and monasteries closed; clergy and workers expelled |
| After 1834 | Pastries sold in the shop beside the sugar refinery |
| 1837 | Baking of Pastéis de Belém begins in the buildings attached to the refinery |
| 1983 | Jerónimos Monastery and Tower of Belém become a UNESCO World Heritage Site |
The secret recipe
The bakery says its recipe is known only to its master confectioners, who make the tarts by hand in a secret room, the oficina do segredo, and that the recipe has not changed since 1837.
That is also why you will see two names. Pastéis de Belém refers to the tarts from this bakery, and the name is a registered trademark. Everywhere else in Portugal and the world, the same style of tart is usually called pastel de nata (plural: pastéis de nata). Bakers outside the original shop make excellent versions, but none uses the original recipe.
What you can taste for yourself: a crisp, flaky, slightly blistered pastry shell, a just-set custard with caramelized dark spots on top, and a tart that is best eaten warm, within minutes of leaving the oven.
The coffee ritual: how to order like a local
In Portugal, a custard tart and a coffee are a natural pair, any time of day. The tart is rich and sweet; a small, intense coffee cuts through it. At the counter, you will hear a different vocabulary from the one in American coffee shops.
| Order | What you get | Best with a tart? |
|---|---|---|
| Bica / café | An espresso; bica is the Lisbon word | Yes, the classic pairing |
| Pingado | Espresso with a drop of milk | Yes, slightly softer |
| Meia de leite | Roughly half coffee, half hot milk, in a cup | Good for breakfast |
| Galão | Coffee with a lot of milk, served in a tall glass | Good if you like a latte-style drink |
| Abatanado | A longer coffee, similar to an americano | Fine, but less traditional |
Where does the word bica come from?
Ask in Lisbon and someone may tell you that bica stands for Beba Isto Com Açúcar (“drink this with sugar”), supposedly a sign put up at a historic Lisbon cafe when espresso first seemed too bitter to customers. It is a charming tale, but we found no solid evidence for it, so treat it as a popular legend. The word is mainly used in Lisbon and the south; in Porto, you will often hear cimbalino instead.
Cinnamon, sugar and timing
Shakers of ground cinnamon and powdered sugar are typically on hand for dusting the tarts. Eat the tart first while it is warm, then finish your bica, or alternate bites and sips. Portuguese coffee is drunk quickly, often standing at the counter.
Recreating the moment at home
You cannot get the secret recipe, but you can get the pairing right with a good bakery tart (or your own pastel de nata) warmed briefly in the oven and a short, strong espresso.
- Warm the tart for a few minutes so the custard softens and the pastry crisps.
- Pull a short espresso, around 1 oz (30 ml), or make a strong moka pot coffee.
- Add a pinch of cinnamon to the tart, not to the coffee.
- For a galão-style drink, pour a shot into a tall glass and top with plenty of hot milk.
Two of our coffees suit the moment. Brazil Santos is a smooth, balanced medium roast with cocoa undertones, gentle nuttiness and low acidity, a classic espresso base that will not fight the custard. For a livelier shot, African Espresso blends coffees from Kenya, Tanzania and Ethiopia in a medium-dark roast with red fruit and chocolate. Both can be ground for espresso machines and moka pots. If you are new to pulling shots, start with our guide on how to make espresso at home.
Pastéis de Belém FAQ
What is the difference between pastéis de Belém and pastéis de nata?
Pastéis de Belém are the tarts made by the original bakery in Belém, which uses a secret recipe and owns the name. Pastéis de nata is the general name for the same style of custard tart made by other bakeries.
When did Pastéis de Belém open?
The bakery began making its tarts in 1837, in buildings attached to a sugar refinery next to the Jerónimos Monastery.
Is the recipe really secret?
According to the bakery, yes. It says the recipe is known only to its master confectioners, who make the tarts in a secret room.
What coffee do Portuguese people drink with a custard tart?
Most often a bica (espresso). A galão or meia de leite is common at breakfast.
Sources
- Pastéis de Belém. History. Official website.
- UNESCO World Heritage Centre. Monastery of the Hieronymites and Tower of Belém in Lisbon.
- Visit Lisboa (Turismo de Lisboa). Pastéis de Belém.
- Practice Portuguese. Ordering coffee in Portugal.
Facts checked in October 2026.
Keep reading: How to make espresso at home · The history of coffee · Single Origins